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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.